July 2010

A few hours with the change-makers

by Laurence on 31 Jul, 2010

The mayor of Yeumble suggested I meet one of their groups at the neighborhood’s youth center called AVISES, which means “aware” in French. This is a group of girls from 13 to 21. These young women and teenagers started their own association. I was curious to meet them as most women groups I know often attract women of 35 and above. And upon my arrival at the youth center, I met Aichatou, the 18 year-old leader of AVISES. She sat with me in a shaded corner of the director’s office. Her long braided hair was tied on the left side of her head and on top she was wearing a white cap. Her crocheted white t-shirt was falling to the right, leaving a shoulder bare. With her pink pants and her white tennis shoes, nothing was traditional about her apparel; she would have fitted perfectly in a hip hop music video. And when I asked her about the mission of AVISES, almost on a steady rap rhythm, her brown eyes looking straight into mine, she told me, her words coming to me loudly, clearly, like a bullet:

“We are young women fighting against domestic violence, psychological violence, sexual violence, the violence of the words, the violence that hurts our mothers, and hurts us. We are AVISES, and we are young women involved in their communities, to change our future. We know that when you educate a woman you educate a generation, a community.”

She wanted to know about my research, and I told her all about it, and she found it interesting. Unfortunately, I could not interview them for my sample because the research ethics board in the US requires that I interview only women above 18, otherwise, I need to go and get consent from their parents, which is very difficult. She said her friends and her wanted to learn more about family planning and contraception, and invited me to talk about it the following Wednesday at their meeting. I agreed.

The next Wednesday I came to the youth center at the end of a humid afternoon, and walked between the brown walls, along some condemned rooms, and finally entered in one where gathered next to sewing machines and desks about 30 young women dressed finely for the occasion were waiting for me. Some I could tell were also wearing the traditional wrapped clothes from Mauritania, like many of their compatriots; they must have immigrated to Dakar’s suburbs. I came with a nurse, I thought she may be able to provide important answers to questions, if I did not know, or direct to community resources I may not know about. They followed a strict agenda, opening the meeting with a prayer, with their eyes closed and palms toward the sky, they asked Allah to support their efforts to change their communities, and help the women of Yeumble. At the beginning of the meeting they talked about the floods coming to Yeumble once again with the rainy season, and the efforts of AVISES to help the families that will be affected by these inevitable catastrophes. They talked about their plans to take care of the beggar children, and teach them during their summer holidays at the youth center. Then they introduced me and the nurse, and the moment came when I took off my researcher hat, and became Laurence again, a young woman like them, just there to talk woman to woman.

Selfishly, I hoped no man would be there on that day, to make sure my AVISES would feel free to share worries, ask questions. But the director of the youth center, a young man, insisted to stay. I led an awareness meeting, talking about STDs, methods of contraception, and family planning. I said some information will be important now, other will be as they become older, perhaps for their mothers, but many of the young women are also married, and these may be questions they are thinking about. In any case, the AVISES asked many questions, for the first time they were having a sexual education class. They talked about myths and rumors, and the round table was a success. Aichatou was taking notes, the director was keeping quiet. The meeting was coming to an end after more than 2 hours, and everyone prayed Allah to stay with them for the following week. I could hear the chairs moving, the girls laughing and chatting, getting ready to go home. And at this moment, the director turned towards me and said:

“Here in Yeumble, there has been a worrisome number of rapes happening in the community. And AVISES will do something about it. I planned a working group next week so the girls can talk about their responsibility in these rapes and about how they are causing them”. At this moment, the girls started exiting the room, through the door between the director and I. And I lost sight of him. I stopped breathing for a moment.

Excuse-me? I did not hear that…

Everyone had exited when I found the words again to reply. But everyone was gone. Excuse-me? You will sit the girls down and with a flashlight in their eyes, ask them how they cause the rapes? I know what the answer will be: We concluded that the girls should dress more modestly. And the women in this room were dressed very modestly for the most part. Or, pushed down the throat of one of the women, she will have to declare publically: “we concluded that us women, should stay at home. For our safety…” And with such conclusions, how will AVISES continue to exist? Young women will not be allowed to gather and change their communities, and feel alive, and feel like they are contributing. I am part of AVISES from close and afar, I want to change my community too.

Or maybe, the conclusion of this workshop imposed on them will be: “We should have this meeting with the men of the community…” I hope Aichatou that’s what you will tell me next time we talk.

You feel a wave of change, and then comes a reef, unexpected, still there, underwater, breaking the wave and causing turmoil. But eventually, this wave will surmount it.

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Bamako-Dakar express

by Laurence on 21 Jul, 2010

I got to Dakar from Bamako by bus. The bus is cheaper than flying, but this is not why I chose to travel by land. I decided to bus down to Dakar mainly because the physician I was working with in Bamako told me that on the road you get to look at the villages, meet people at the stops and cross the entire length of Senegal. Flying is fast, impersonal and it lacks the authentic feeling of travelling through space and crossing borders. I listened to him, and felt suddenly adventurous. I was ready to depart and arrive to the most western point of the African continent; pointe des Almadies in Dakar.

At 5 am, I reached the dark bus station in a popular neighborhood of Bamako. On colorful, thin, and damaged mats laid on the cold bitumen, travelers were sleeping with their eyes half-shut. To make my way to my bus, I had to carefully step between their heads, or just next to their sleeping children bundled up in blankets. The sleeping passengers arrived from Niger, Mauritania, or Guinea, and stopped in Bamako. As I reached my bus, I heard the Adzan-the call to prayer- and the sleepers rose unhurriedly, the moon shining on their tired bodies. They started praying in unison, surrounded with old European buses, piles of cardboard boxes, and gigantic plastic bags. The station was packed yet felt serene.

Many women about to get on my bus arrived with 5 or 6 enormous cardboard boxes, sometimes 4 meters high and 6 wide, taped sturdily. I would later understand that they were bringing bazin textile into Dakar, a shiny weaved fabric that Malians and Senegalese love. They wear their boubous (outfits) made of bazin for weddings and parties, or at the Friday prayers. The best bazin comes from Mali, and these women make some profit on the Senegalese market. The women and the bus company employees were pushing on the boxes, pilling them up inside the bus or on top.

Yeumble
When I left Mali I had the feeling my research was going well, I had made valuable contacts and was kept busy all day collecting data and gathering new information. However, when I arrived in Senegal, I had to call people, introduce myself here and there, and try to understand the city of Dakar. I had slowed down and lost the good pace I was on in Mali. My contacts at Intrahealth were busy with new projects, and were sent on missions outside of Dakar. They referred me to a partner organization deeply rooted in the community, Enda Santé. Enda Santé led community campaigns against AIDS and Malaria in Senegal, especially in Dakar’s suburbs. The Dakar region is divided in three arrondissements: Dakar, Pikine and Rufisque. Pikine and Rufisque are the suburbs (banlieues). I was sent to a specific part of Pikine named Yeumble. Cirè, Enda Santé’s nurse and community worker based in Yeumble became my assistant, he contacts community partners, schedules interviews, visits health centers with me, translates and tells me about the social dynamics of Yeumble. His help is incredibly precious, and I hope my findings will also be precious for Yeumble.

A third of Senegal’s population lives in the Dakar region, and most of them are in the banlieues. Yeumble is one of many subdivisions of Pikine, and is in expands exponentially every year. Over the last 7 years it grew from a population of 50,000 to 130,000. Pikine is sprawling in all directions, with populations coming from the rural areas, but also from neighboring countries. Last year, the rain season lasted longer than usual and the rains were stronger. Many of the houses in Yeumble were flooded, some devastated. The inhabitants, and occasionally the government tried to get the water out of the foundations, but the houses were poorly built, and the ground was so inundated that the operation was unsuccessful for the most part. When one walks through some of the parts of Yeumble, it looks like a ghost town. Some managed to flee to others neighborhood, but the ones who had no relatives to movie in with had to stay in the houses filled with 20 to 40 centimeters of dirty water. One time, I passed by this flooded house were one tiny room was still dry, and the family uses it used to sleep 10 persons at night and cook in the day. These who stayed are referred to as the fishmen – hommes poissons- by others in Dakar.

I talked with Cirè about the work of Enda Santé, their collaboration with Intrahealth and their aims. We tried to determine together the important persons to interviews, the ones who have influence on women and their reproductive health in the neighborhood. We are presently conducting these interviews, meeting youth groups, mayors, doctors, midwifes, women, marabouts, imams. I will update you on the results soon.

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Marabout, marabout, ma-ra-bout-bout-bout, bout d’cigare…

July 18, 2010

Presqu’à chaque fois, les femmes me disent en entrevue qu’elles se rendent chez le marabout pour soigner leurs blessures, leurs ulcères d’estomac, jeter de mauvais sorts ou s’assurer de la fidélité de leur mari. Celles avec qui j’ai parlé dans les centres de santé sont celles qui refusent maintenant de faire appel aux marabouts, celles [...]

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“I don’t remember”

July 12, 2010

Conducting interviews is not as easy as I imagined. Even though women accept to participate in the interviews, they don’t usually give opinions. For example, if I ask them: – “Have you used the injection before?” (The most popular method of contraception here is the Depo-Provera which prevent unwanted pregnancies for three months) -”Yes” -”Were [...]

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The unique nobodies

July 7, 2010

Fleas dream of buying themselves a dog, and nobodies, dream of escaping poverty: that one magical day good luck will suddenly rain down on them–will rain down in buckets. But good luck doesn’t rain down yesterday, today, tomorrow, or ever. Good luck doesn’t even fall in a fine drizzle, no matter how hard the nobodies [...]

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